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The
Climb
South - East Flank
From base camp the trail goes round the base of Imja Tse between
the moraine and the mountain before turning north-east and
climbing steep grassy slopes and small rocky steps. Following
an open gully leads to the high camp at 5,280 m.
From the high camp scramble across the open gully and take
the right hand ridge. After the ridge straight up and cross
to the glacier. Find your way upwards, to the left side between
the crevasses and seracs. You will see a gully with on your
left side rocks and on the right side more open space. This
gully leads to the summit ridge. Be aware of falling stones
and ice.
The ridge itself is a classic and undulates towards the main
summit which is reached by a final snow pitch.
North Ridge
Follow the Imja Glacier and the moraines by snowy slopes op
to the col at 5,700 m. Put your camp on the col. From the
col follow the ridge. This ridge is difficult under snow conditions.
Beware of the cornices. The ridge steepens for the final top.
This route is a little more difficult than the normal route.
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